Oil Change
We drain old engine oil, swap the filter, and refill with the grade your car needs. Takes 30–45 minutes.
When you need it
Every 5,000–7,500 miles, or if your dashboard light is on.
All services
From a $40 oil change to a full timing-belt job — if it’s on this list, we do it in-house at our 934 Metropolitan Pkwy garage. Plain-English explainers below so you know what you’re paying for.
01 · Group
The basics that keep everything else from going wrong.
We drain old engine oil, swap the filter, and refill with the grade your car needs. Takes 30–45 minutes.
When you need it
Every 5,000–7,500 miles, or if your dashboard light is on.
Replaces the gear oil that lets your axle gears mesh without grinding themselves apart.
When you need it
Whining noise from the rear, or it's been 30k–60k miles.
Drain and refill the fluid that lubricates and cools every gear in your transmission.
When you need it
Rough or delayed shifts, or per your manufacturer's schedule (usually 60k–100k miles).
02 · Group
The expensive part. We diagnose what's actually wrong before quoting you.
Swap the small parts that ignite the air-fuel mix in each cylinder. Restores smooth idling and throttle response.
When you need it
Misfires, rough idle, or every 30k–100k miles depending on plug type.
Replaces the part that delivers the high-voltage spark to your spark plugs. A bad coil makes a cylinder stop firing.
When you need it
Check engine light with a misfire code, or one cylinder running rough.
Replaces the belt that keeps your engine's valves and pistons in sync. If this fails, the engine usually fails with it.
When you need it
Per the schedule in your owner's manual — usually 60k–100k miles.
The serpentine belt that drives your alternator, AC, and water pump. Cracks lead to total failure.
When you need it
Squealing noise, visible cracks, or it's been 60k–100k miles.
Replaces the seal that keeps oil from leaking out the top of your engine.
When you need it
Oil burning smell, oil pooling on top of the engine.
Replaces the rubber-and-metal mounts that hold the engine in place.
When you need it
Vibration at idle, clunk when shifting into gear.
03 · Group
Don't put these off. Pads worn through ruin rotors. Rotors ruined ruin calipers.
Swap the wear-down friction pads that press against your rotors when you brake.
When you need it
Squealing, grinding, or longer stopping distances. Usually every 30k–70k miles.
04 · Group
If it doesn't start, charge, or stay on — it's usually one of these.
Test, remove, and install a new battery sized for your car. Takes about 20 minutes.
When you need it
Slow cranking, dashboard warnings, or your battery is 3–5 years old.
Replaces the part that recharges your battery while you drive. A failed alternator will leave you stranded.
When you need it
Battery light on dashboard, dim headlights at idle, dead battery shortly after a jump.
Swap the motor that cranks your engine when you turn the key.
When you need it
Clicking sound when turning the key, or engine cranks slowly even with a good battery.
05 · Group
Everything that keeps your engine from overheating and your cabin comfortable.
Replaces the heat exchanger that pulls heat out of your coolant.
When you need it
Coolant leaks, overheating, or visible damage to the radiator fins.
Replaces the pump that circulates coolant through your engine.
When you need it
Coolant leak near the front of the engine, overheating, whining noise.
Replaces the small valve that controls when coolant flows to your radiator.
When you need it
Engine runs too hot or too cold, heater blows lukewarm air.
06 · Group
If it bounces, drifts, clunks, or pulls to one side — start here.
Replaces the bearings that let your wheels spin smoothly on the axle.
When you need it
Humming or grinding noise that changes with speed or turning.
Replaces the arms that connect your wheels to the frame and absorb bumps.
When you need it
Clunking over bumps, uneven tire wear, loose steering feel.
Replaces the shaft that transfers power from your transmission to the wheels.
When you need it
Clicking on turns, vibration when accelerating, grease near the wheel.
Replaces the pivot joints that connect your control arms to the wheel hubs.
When you need it
Clunking on bumps, loose steering, uneven tire wear on the inner edges.
Replaces the high-pressure hose that feeds power steering fluid to your steering rack.
When you need it
Power steering fluid leaks, hard-to-turn steering wheel, whining noise when turning.
07 · Group
How well your engine breathes and burns fuel.
Replaces the pump that sends fuel from your tank to your engine.
When you need it
Engine sputters, won't start, or stalls under load.
Replaces the precision valves that spray fuel into your cylinders.
When you need it
Rough idle, poor fuel economy, misfire on a specific cylinder.
08 · Group
Sensors and modules that tell your engine what to do.
Replaces the sensor that measures exhaust oxygen so your engine can adjust the fuel mix.
When you need it
Check engine light with O2 sensor codes, drop in fuel economy, failed emissions test.
Call or email. If it’s a car repair, odds are we do it. If we don’t, we’ll tell you who does.